Merry Old England

Decisions, Decisions
Margie and I got married in June of 1971. Shortly thereafter she received a check for her vested portion of retirement for two years of teaching. So, what should we do? Perhaps we should open a savings account. Or maybe, we could invest it.

Finally, starting a pattern that happily follows us through more than 50 years of marriage, we decided to take a trip. Since there was no internet, we went to a travel agent. We had to find a trip that would fit into the next seven weeks before the fall semester started. We were able to find a trip to the British Isles. It was high on Margie’s list because she’s always been fascinated with Stonehenge.

It was a long flight, though more comfortable than the flights now because the seats were larger and had more legroom. But still, that’s when we discovered Margie suffers significant west to east jet lag. Even now, we never plan anything for the first day of a trip to Europe. The transatlantic flights always seem to leave in the evening or early night. I suppose they think everyone will sleep on the way over. Since neither of us can sleep on the airplane, it’s directly to the hotel room for us.

England Swings (like a pendulum do)
Growing up in the 1960s we were heavily influenced by the British invasion beginning with The Beatles first US hit “I want To Hold Your Hand” in 1964. We couldn’t get enough of all things British, the music, the fashions, the haircuts and the slang. Mod was what the style was called, and Carnaby Street was the place to find it.

What a major disappointment! What had been the iconic epicenter of swinging London in the 1960s had become a tawdry, shabby looking street of overpriced gift stores and strung-out people by the 1970s. But it was still fun and there was more yet to see.

Fortunately, Carnaby St. wasn’t the only thing in London. Trafalgar Square, with the Nelson Monument, was a busy and fascinating place. We loved the Albert and Victoria Museum and the British Museum. I was especially fascinated with the Egyptian displays at the British Museum.

For me, a highlight of our visit to London was the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace. While we were there, we got to see a rare occurrence. The Coldstream Guards (think the big bear skin hats) were being deployed to Northern Ireland and the Royal Marines were taking over responsibility for guarding the palace.

A few random thoughts on London: I was struck at how unimposing 10 Downing Street is compared to the White House. It’s just a townhouse in the middle of the block with the door right on the street. Although, I suppose the appropriate comparison is to Buckingham Palace. We were surprised to learn that Big Ben is not the name of the large clock tower, that’s the Westminster Tower. Big Ben is the name of the bell that chimes the hours. The London tube (subway) was easy to use, as were the buses. It wasn’t until several years later when we visited Paris that I realized the ease of use was because the schedules were printed in English. I think it’s just part of our natural American inclination that everyone should speak English.

Touching History
We planned our trip to Stonehenge. It’s interesting that at the time there were no scheduled tours from London to Stonehenge. We had to arrange for a train trip to Salisbury, the nearest town. We bought our ticket on a standard English train. We had a first class ticket which gave us a private compartment. It was what we would now think of as the “Harry Potter train”. But in those pre-Potter days we thought of it as the “Murder on the Orient Express” train. I kept waiting for Hercule Poirot to show up in our compartment.

When we arrived at Salisbury we stopped at a shop for tea and biscuits. We asked how to get to Stonehenge. They told us to catch a local bus. There was a bus route with a stop that was about 100 or so yards from Stonehenge.

Surprisingly, there was no visitor center or gift shop at Stonehenge. There was a small pull-off where a few cars could park, but mostly it was just an open area. We walked from the bus stop to Stonehenge and were able to walk right up to the monument. We could walk around and touch the individual stones and we could have climbed on them had we desired. It’s amazing to think that we were able to be right in the middle of it since now the whole area is cordoned off so you can’t approach it and must view it from a distance.

We were lucky to go there at a time when it was still approachable. I have always marveled that preindustrial people were able to move and manipulate these massive stones. (Perhaps aliens really were involved.)

Touring the Rest of England
After more than 50 years it’s hard for me to remember the exact itinerary of the remainder of our tour in England. There are a few things that come to mind. Every village has a church, and they are all old, and when we were on a tour bus it seemed like we visited every one of them. It was a bit too much for us 20-somethings.

We stopped at a pub one evening, I don’t remember where or what we ate but I do remember what we had to drink. I ordered an English beer; I was a little hesitant since they come warm. I discovered they brew them to be drunk warm, and it was good. But what isn’t made to be drunk warm is Coca-Cola. Margie ordered a coke, and they brought her a glass, warm and right out of the bottle. She asked for some ice and the bartender gave her that look like, “Bloody Yanks,” and then disappeared into the back with the glass. He came back after what must have been 10 minutes with the glass in hand and a single cube of ice floating in it. He set the glass down with a self-satisfied look and pointed to it as if to say, “Here’s your bloody ice.”

I was surprised at how extensive the Roman occupation of Britain was. I was equally surprised how much of their influence remains. The Romans brought road building, city planning and many of the crops that were staples in England through the Middle Ages. They also introduced the Christian religion. Even the word Britain is of Roman origin.

One last thought about England before we head north to Scotland. We were touring through an area called the Lake District; a beautiful area that, according to our bus driver, was the honeymoon district of England. We stopped in a small village that he said was the most fertile village in England. And I think he was telling the truth; I have never seen so many baby buggies in one place. Maybe there’s something in the water.

On to Scotland!